Epulae is a shortlist of New York restaurants and the dishes worth seeking out at each, chosen for genuinely good food without bias towards fine dining.

Each restaurant carries one of four marks, given for the dishes named beside it. Three leaves are reserved for the very best — with one day in the city, these are where we would send you. Two leaves, for three days. One leaf, for a week. Recommended marks the places worth a visit on any short trip.

The front page shows a random selection from each mark, drawn afresh with every visit. Within each mark, restaurants are listed alphabetically.

Leaves are awarded only for food. On occasion, outstanding beverages are awarded recommendations.

The list is kept by a small group of critics and chefs who have spent decades eating, seriously and widely, across the world. Nothing here is sponsored.

• Three Leaves
• Two Leaves
• One Leaf
• Recommended
• Awarded this season